|
|
|
As designers and builders of small wooden boats
we are frequently asked why we choose a certain rig or a particular type of hull. Before we put pen to drawing
board we must have a fair idea about which sort of boat we wish to create and what materials we intend to use.
Enough has been said about the virtues of timber so I won't comment except to say what amazing stuff it really
is! As to type, broadly speaking small boats fall into two categories - racers and cruisers. A small racing sailboat
will generally be light, responsive, quick and demanding to sail. A cruising boat should be stable, comfortable,
seaworthy, spacious and forgiving to sail.* We mostly build cruising boats so we try very hard to satisfy all the
relevant criteria but also to add the magic ingredient - FUN. It's no use whatsoever to design and build a safe
comfortable boat if she's a slug to windward, takes an hour or more to rig or is so cramped that stiff necks are
compulsory. The fact that most of our boats are sold in kit form and build by amateurs adds another dimension to
the equation - they mus be rewarding to build. The following then will, we hope, answer the most frequently asked
questions.
* Except for the Secret which is designed to cruise
and race.
| What kind of Hulls are they? |
They are beamy light displacement V bottom sailing
hulls derived from European working boats. They all have moderately flared forward sections and fairly flat aft
sections, resulting in an inherently buoyant and “dry” boat. Although technically they are hard chine craft, the
chines are rounded off to give a softer, more efficient waterline. The Secret 20s are double chined, then faired
round. Our boats are not Dories or Sharpies although there are some similarities. In essence they are more like
little ships then large dinghies. All Boats are drafted in house by the founder of Scruffie Marine, Derek Ellard
with assistance from Compu-Craft engineers.
Most of our boats are rigged with a boomless standing
lugsail - an evolution of the square and lateen sails beloved by Vikings, Arabs and Pacific seafarers for centuries.
Secrets carry a gaff cutter rig.
| Why not a more modern Bermudan Rig? |
There are a number of reasons but the key word is
simplicity. The mast for a standing lug, like a gaff or gunter rig, is relatively short and quick to raise. On
our bigger boats we step the mast in tabernacle on the foredeck and it is a simple task for the single-hander to
raise the spar and make the forestay fast with a plain lanyard. The yard for a lugsail has the sail already bent
on - the sail is then hoisted up, the halyard cleated. A downhaul is used to tighten the rig for windward work
or slackened off on a reach or run - there are no tracks to jam. Our smaller boats carry even simpler unstayed
masts which drop through a hole in the foreseat and down on the keel. These boats can be up and sailing in 10 minutes
flat. The best sail for windward work is undoubtedly a tall narrow bermudan one; the best offwind is a full square
or rounded spinnaker type. Our standing lugsails are carefully designed and cut to form an efficient foil shape
to windward, yet they are a full and powerful driving sail offwind. It's the best compromise I can come up with
and it works extremely well. In addition, the bermudan rig just wouldn't look right on our hulls and their superior
windward efficiency isn't fully exploited by our sort hull and keel profile.
| Why don't you carry a boom? |
Because we don't want to get our heads cracked ever
again! We can and do offer alternative rigs but boomless sails set beautifully when sheeted to our wide travellers
for windward sailing, and off the wind they belly out nicely, making for a really efficient rig. An added bonus
is that you get an easy 'soft' gybe. Where I grew up on the Thames Estuary, the local fishermen used to sail loose-footed
boomless fishing smacks called Bawleys. These wonderful old craft even today regularly outpace other boats with
more modern rigs and are renowned for their seaworthiness in the short, sometimes nasty chop of the Thames Estuary
and the North Sea. Our gaff cutters do carry booms, so you'll have to remember to duck
| But don't you have to lower the yard
to tack? |
Dipping lugsails do but we never bother except perhaps
when making a long passage on one tack. The standing lug means just that - it stands up there most of the time.
Incidentally, reefing is simply a matter of rolling up the sails, tying the points and snapping the blocks back
on.
| Doesn't the extra weight aloft make
the boat heel more? |
Yes, a little at first, but after a certain degree
of heel the wind begins to spill off the top the sail, effectively contributing to the overall stability of the
craft. A gaff main, especially the lower peaked ones, will behave in the same manner. A simple fact exploited by
generations of our forebears.
| Your boats don't carry a centreboard,
why is that? |
Ah the centreboard issue ! To start with there are
one or two widely held but erroneous assumptions here, the first is that a centreboard or daggerboard will contribute
to the stability of the boat under sail - it won't unless it's made of steel or iron and even then its “righting”
effect will depend on how low down it is positioned. The centreboard's main function is to provide lateral resistance
in the water and thus prevent the vessel sliding to leeward when reaching or sailing close hauled. With our boats
the area of fixed keel under the water does exactly the same job, and compared to some boats we actually have more
keel area than their centreboard area. The second assumption is that centreboards or lifting keels are a prerequisite
for effective windward performance - on small sailing boats they aren't. The long shallow keel is, however, not
as efficient to windward as a deep narrow one, so you will not point as high as the average bermudan rigged centre-boarder
but boat speed and excellent offwind performance more than compensates.
Our boats are designed specifically for cruising
sailor, and a long fixed keel ballasted with lead will give you:
Self-righting under most conditions.
Much more room where it counts - in the cockpit.
A steadier helm in broken water or stronger winds.
The ability to keep on to windward in the shallows. ...................................
One less moving part to worry about.
A much easier hull to build in the first place.
Very well indeed! Virtually every new owner has
expressed surprise at their speed and stability. We regularly hear from owners overhauling this or beating that.
As an example, a Stornaway owner recently recently
raced nine assorted trailer-sailers around the course. Despite being the second smallest boat, the Stornaway lost
little ground upwind and pulled it all back downwind, eventually finishing fifth, Not bad for a shallow keeled
cruiser with an "archaic" rig.
The gaff rigged Secrets are quicker and point higher - in the same race a well sailed Secret 20 would definitely
be arguing with the leaders.
With smaller keels, all of our boats make excellent
displacement motor boats. In addition, 16 or 18 foot planing boats are available.
| How long do they take to build? |
A Shimmy can be put together in two weeks but most
people spread the job over 2 or 3 months.
The bigger boats take longer of course, but as a
guide a Stornaway Dayboat seems to average about six months of spare time work.
| Can anyone build a Scruffie boat? |
Of course. Our unique slot system, comprehensive
instruction manual and after hours phone service means that customers ranging from school children to retirees
have successfully built them.
Home handyman tools, a pair of saw stools plus a
carport or garage - double if possible. Of course the more power equipment you have the easier it is, but a cordless
drill and a sander are enough to get going- make sure all your tools are well honed and sharp, especially planes
and chisels.
Everything except paint, even mixing pots and gloves.
All the marine ply components are pre-cut, all the timber sized and ready for assembly. Screws, resin, filler and
detailed instructions are all supplied with the kits. All models are delivered with photo spreadsheets and off-cuts
matching the trim. A typical kit would include: one pack of pre-machined marine ply sheets; one pre-fabricated
keel; one long pack of stringers, spars, trims etc; one crate for all the smaller components plus resin, fillers
etc. All consignments are bubble wrapped, sealed and insured prior to shipment.
| What if I don't want to build one? |
Then we can deliver a ready built, fully fitted
boat right to your door! Or a part-built one, if you prefer.
For starters our beamy hulls are inherently stable,
the ballasted keels* ensure good self-righting capability and built-in watertight flotation chambers will keep
them afloat.
All models will sail themselves on most points of the wind and the yawls, in particular, will heave to quietly
and safely almost indefinitely.
The luggers boomless mains can be brailed up (gathered up to the mast) or dropped in seconds and the foresails
can be roller furled just as quickly. There are no mast tracks or slides to jam.
The finely drawn lines of our models mean that only small auxiliary motors need be fitted. Most Stornaway owners
opt for the 2 HP Honda 4-stroke and even a Scintilla 24 needs only a 4 HP 4-stroke to average 5 knots with staggering
economy.
Derived as they are from European work-boats, all of our boats are exceptionally capable and safe in heavy weather
- I wouldn't have it any other way. Among our builders we have a high percentage of professional mariners and even
sailing in 35+ knots and 3 metre swells they report "no drama." Of course few of us would think of going
out in such extreme conditions but it's vitally important to know the boat will take it and get you home safely,
no matter what.
* Except for Shimmy
The whole boat, inside and out, is coated with epoxy
resin, effectively sealing the entire structure. The hull is then finished with 2-pack top coats, clear or pigmented.
Routine maintenance involves touching up any damaged paint or vanish work and roughly once a year a 'freshen up'
coat of 2 pack epoxy varnish is applied. The hull should not need re-coating for several years and given reasonable
care and attention they'll last for generations.
Full payment with order is preferred, however other
options are available and our "Build as You Buy" terms may suit builders who are prepared to pick up
their kit themselves.
Most owners opt to purchase the Hull Kit first and purchase the Mast/Sail pack when their boat is nearing completion.
A deposit * on the Mast/Sail Pack allows us to send the timber components (spars, rudder & tiller) with your
initial order (saving on freight) and the sails are easily posted when required. Please contact us for details.
* Price will be held for 6 months
Delivery to your door is standard and is usually
within 3-4 weeks from order. You'll need a hand to help offload the bigger kits. Please contact
us for a freight price.
We have a simple policy - if you're not completely
satisfied with any aspect of our products tell us and we'll fix it. Free. Quickly. It is in our best interests
as well as yours.
We are a member of The Boating Industry Association of Queensland and abide by the Boating Industry of Australia's
code of practice.
We take pride in our work and do our very best to ensure that you, our customer, will enjoy working with us.
|